When designing your custom engagement ring, there are a few key factors to consider. Here we guide you through each step with some general information. Taking the time to have a personalised appointment with your Monty Adams Jewellery Concierge means we take you through these steps in detail with your individual ideas and budget in mind. We come to a location of your choice at a time that suits you and work closely with you to ensure every detail is considered.

Ring Style

The overall ring style sets the tone for the ring. A solitaire has a very different look and feel than a halo engagement ring. Most importantly, there is no right or wrong when it comes to the overall design of your ring. Choosing something that speaks to your personal style and love story is the most important factor. We can bring to your appointment a range of sample rings to try on if you are unsure of the perfect ring design for your hand and we have an extensive design library of rings previously made.

Solitaire

Solitaire engagement rings feature a singular diamond or gemstone and are a great classic and timeless symbol of love. Without the same costs associated with more intricately designed engagement rings carrying accent stones, the solitaire engagement ring allows you to focus your efforts on the one showpiece stone. The most popular setting style for a solitaire engagement ring is the claw setting, as it allows the sparkle and play of light within the diamond to be optimised. Monty Adams can guide you through stone shape and band choices to create a custom engagement ring that pays homage to the most classic proposals.

Halo

Halo diamond engagement rings are one of the most popular design choices when it comes to engagement rings. Symbolising the never-ending love story you share with your fiancée; the halo completely embraces the centre stone. It is the embodiment of “I will love you forever.”

 

 

 

Trilogy

The three-stone engagement ring is a classic piece of jewellery that has stood the test of time. Romantically, the trio of stones represents a couple’s past, present, and future, making it an ideal choice for those seeking to propose. Providing an almost unlimited number of combinations when selecting your stone type and size, the trilogy ring is a perfect choice when designing your unique custom engagement ring.

 

 

Shoulder diamonds

 Like the solitaire engagement ring, an engagement ring with shoulder accent stones is classic but with a contemporary twist. Perfect for that special proposal that deserves a bit more sparkle, this is a bold and popular choice. Offering an array of different setting styles, accent stones can be combined in a unique way that complements any hand shape and size.

 

 

Toi et Moi

This incredible style means “You and Me” and is a symbol of two lives joining together in love. The amazing this about this design is there is no wrong or right combination, any two stones can be nestled together to create this impressive custom engagement ring.

 

 

 

Vintage

Vintage engagement rings give off a unique, timeless, and elegant feel. Intricate designs with etched metal bands, flowery motifs, and mill grain detailing are the heartbeat of the vintage engagement ring aesthetic. Vintage engagement rings are precious pieces of jewellery handcrafted to last a lifetime, the perfect choice to symbolise the promise of a future together. 

 

 

Band style

Band-style engagement rings are simple in design but not in spirit. A row of matching stones that represent the journey of your love story, these usually low-set rings are a great way to show off a more modern choice for your custom engagement ring. Perfect for unisex rings, or matching designs, setting styles can be personalised to match any hand or stone shape choice.

 

 

 

Men’s styles

Why should the men miss out! Typically, more parallel in design, a man’s engagement ring can carry any stone or design feature that reflects the wearer’s personality and lifestyle. With more metal choices than ever before, men’s engagement rings are becoming a popular choice for making a statement about your upcoming nuptials. We can take you through the style options and combine your favourite design elements to create a custom journey dedicated to the male in your love story.

 

 

The Centre Stone

Diamonds have been a popular choice for centre stones in engagement rings for many years due to their sparkle, hardness, and durability. However. This does not mean this is your only choice. Selecting a centre stone that speaks to your personal taste and creativity will result in a ring that reflects your individuality and represents your relationship and promises for the future.

 

Natural Diamonds

Made of pure carbon, and crystalised over millions of years under heat and pressure deep in the earth’s core, Diamond is the most classic and natural choice for an engagement ring. It is the hardest natural material on earth! Fire, brilliance, and sparkle are all terms used to describe the beauty a diamond can exhibit. Nearly all diamonds have natural inclusions or colour tints within them and are graded on a universal scale to determine their unique characteristics and value. Known as the 4 C’s, diamonds are graded on their clarity, colour, cut and carat weight. Learn more about the 4 C’s here.

Precious due to their rarity, naturally mined diamonds that rank high on the grading scale are very scarce. Selecting a natural diamond for your engagement ring is a very romantic experience and we can assist in guiding you through the maze of information. All natural diamonds are supplied with independent gemmological certification for your complete peace of mind.

Lab-grown Diamonds

Growing in popularity over the last few years, Lab Grown diamonds are more affordable and offer great value for your budget. Offered as a more sustainable choice, Lab Grown diamonds offer an alternative for someone not wanting to wear a mined diamond while maintaining all the best qualities a diamond offers, romance, sparkle, strength, and hardness.

Visually, Lab-grown diamonds are identical to naturally mined diamonds in every way. Both are faceted from crystalised carbon and possess the same chemical, physical and optical characteristics. Importantly, they exhibit the same fire and sparkle. They have the same hardness level and durability.

The very subtle differences between lab-grown diamonds and naturally mined diamonds cannot be seen with the naked eye or under a jeweller’s loupe. Natural diamonds have tiny amounts of nitrogen, while lab-grown diamonds have no nitrogen. These trace elements, trapped in a mined diamond when it was formed, can only be detected by trained gemmologists and sophisticated equipment designed for that purpose.

The most meaningful difference between a mined diamond and a lab-grown diamond is its origin. One is over a billion years old and was created by geological processes deep within the earth and the other was recently grown in a laboratory using cutting-edge technology that replicates the natural growing process. The similarity in the growth process means there are still variations in the colour and clarity of lab-grown diamonds. The same grading criteria (the Four Cs) is used, by the same independent gemmological laboratories that grade naturally mined diamonds.

Moissanite

Moissanite is a naturally occurring silicon carbide and its various crystalline polymorphs. It has the chemical formula SiC and is a rare mineral, discovered by the French chemist Henri Moissan in 1893. As Moissanite is extremely rare and is found in tiny quantities, mainly in meteorites, all moissanite currently sold on the market are synthetic. Offering a more affordable option to natural diamonds, Moissanite was a very popular choice due to the beauty and reflective qualities of each stone. The increased availability and popularity of Lab-grown diamonds over recent years mean moissanite is now a less common choice among brides.

Sapphire

Sapphires are a dream choice for an engagement ring as they come in nearly every colour of the rainbow, have a range of qualities and budgets, and have a hardness of 9, only surpassed by diamonds at hardness level 10. Sapphire is a very versatile choice if you are looking for something different to the traditional diamond.

Ruby

Ruby is one of the big hitters when it comes to high-end gemstones! Depending on the origin and quality of a ruby, some can cost more per carat than diamond. Its striking and beautiful red colour is synonymous with romance making it a perfect choice for an engagement ring. Like sapphire, the hardness level is 9 so it is a great choice for everyday wear.

Emerald

Green in colour, this gemstone is instantly recognizable. Natural emeralds with few inclusions are very rare and valuable. Not quite as hard as Sapphire or ruby, a little more care is required for everyday wear. Emerald has a hardness level of 7.5-8

Other coloured gemstones

There are many other selections when it comes to coloured gemstones, and there are almost endless possibilities for colour palettes, tones, shapes, and budgets. Choosing a coloured gemstone for an engagement ring is a great way to show your creative side and can be a fun alternative to diamond. Or combine colours for that extra impact! To ensure your engagement ring looks perfect well into the future, choosing a stone that has the durability to match your lifestyle is important. We can offer individual guidance and advice around hardness levels and budget during your design consultation.

 

Centre Stone Shape 

The shape of the centre stone ties all the other design elements together and provides the most significant visual appeal. There is no ‘best’ shape for everyone. Each shape has its strengths and weaknesses, and the decision of shape should come down to your love for how a design looks when you wear it.  

The Round Brilliant Cut diamond is the most widely chosen shape due to its classic, ageless look and the maximum level of brilliance and sparkle achieved from the shape’s faceting. Importantly, the Round Brilliant Cut is the most expensive shape per carat due to the amount of rough material cut away during the cutting and polishing process. On average 60% is lost to wastage in the cutting process! For this reason, in addition to personal preference for shape, some buyers will select a fancy shape to get a little more size for their budget, with Oval, Pear and Marquise cut diamonds looking the largest for their weight due to their elongated form. 

All shapes in the Brilliant cut family, such as round, cushion, radiant, oval, and pear-shaped diamonds, all hide inclusions well due to the extra faceting and the brilliance created. Princess cut diamonds also hide inclusions well, but inclusions in the corners can cause a weak spot if the stone is knocked hard whilst being worn. Step cuts, unlike brilliant cuts, make it easier to spot inclusions. These shapes include Asscher, Emerald Cut and Baguette diamonds. The long, straight facets of these diamond shapes make imperfections very visible, so clarity is an important consideration when purchasing these stones. 

When looking at diamonds, shapes and ratios are mostly consistent. However, in coloured gemstones, each stone can be cut to varying ratios and thicknesses. This will provide more scope to express your creativity, but it is important to look at the measurements of each stone when comparing, rather than just the weight of the stone. 

 

The most popular of all diamond ring shapes is the round brilliant cut representing over two-thirds of all diamonds sold.

The faceting and light reflection of the round brilliant cut diamond mask colour and inclusions well, so even less desirable stones on paper will look bright in real life, compared to one of the fancy cut shapes. 

 

 

The princess cut is square in shape while still offering the same brilliance as the round diamond. 

Princess cut diamonds have been a favourite within the diamond industry since being introduced in the 1960s due to them losing very little weight when cut from rough.  

The length to width ratio of 1.0-1.05 offers a square shape to the naked eye and is ideal for Princess cut diamonds. 

Pro Tip: To prevent damage to the corners, a princess cut diamond should be set with prongs on all four corners, preferably right-angled claws for maximum strength! 

 

 

 

Becoming more popular over the last decade, cushion cut diamonds get their name from the mix of rounded corners and straight edges, synonymous with a pillow or cushion. In either square or rectangular shapes, the cushion shape diamond disperses light to create maximum sparkle.

Unlike any other cut of diamond, the cushion cut can be faceted/designed in many variations, including standard, modified, and modern. These different cutting styles produce very different looking stones that reflect light differently and allows clients to be a little more creative! 

The length to width ratio: For the square shape, keep the ratio between 1.0 -1.09. Slight rectangles usually range from 1.15-1.25 in ratio. 

Pro Tip: Cushions with a depth and table under 70% are best to ensure brilliance and fire is maintained throughout the depth of the diamond. 

 

 

Showcasing similar brilliance and fire to the round brilliant cut, the oval cut diamond’s elongated silhouette offers a large appearance compared to other shapes of the same carat and is durable because it carries no pointed edges. 

Length to width ratio is very important with oval cut diamonds. Too low and the stone will look very short and stubby. Too high and the stone will appear stretched out. While personal preference may vary, the oval diamond is most appealing with a ratio of 1.30-1.50 

Pro Tip: Elongated stones like the oval cut have a bowtie running across the centre of the stone. Some bowtie is fine, but it should not be so prominent that it takes away from the overall sparkle of the stone. 

 

 

Sometimes called tear drop shaped, with its rounded end that narrows to a distinct point, the pear-shaped diamond is an elegant, timeless choice. Symmetry is critical to the appearance of a pear-shaped diamond, so it shimmers evenly.

The pear shape hides inclusions well but not colour, so choosing a stone with a higher colour is ideal. 

The classic length to width ratio ranges from 1.45-1.75. Some pear shape lovers choose a wider or more narrow shape to suit their personal preference or the jewellery design they are using the diamond for. 

Pro Tip: The point of the pear shape should be protected in a V shaped claw when being set into the jewellery item. 

 

 

The marquise’s elegant narrow body shape: pointed ends and a stunning large crown was first requested by King Louis XIV to mimic the shape of his mistress’ mouth and is particularly complementary on any hand as it makes the finger appear longer and more slender.  

The marquise’s elongated figure also gives the appearance of a larger stone when compared to other shapes of the same carat weight. Symmetry is important when selecting a marquise diamond, the two-pointed ends should align almost perfectly with each other. 

Like oval cut diamonds, the length to width ratio is extremely important for marquise stones and should be between 1.85 to 2.1.   

Pro Tip: The two points at either end of the marquise are the weakest part of the stone and should be protected in V-shaped claws when being set into the jewellery item.  

 

 

 

Asscher and Emerald cut diamonds are basically the same thing, just with varying length to width ratios. Asscher cuts are square whereas Emerald cuts are rectangular.  

The step cut characteristic of these stones does make it hard to hide inclusions and eye-clean stones in lower grades are very difficult to find. In particular, because of its magnificently large table, inclusions may be more noticeable in Emerald cut stones and clarity needs to be a significant consideration.  

However, with its large table surface, the emerald cut diamond offers abundant reflections through its long, straight lines and it showcases size better than other diamonds of the same carat weight.  

A traditional emerald cut ratio ranges from 1.30 to 1.60, with the most popular choice being 1.50. 

As a dazzling alternative to the emerald cut, the Asscher cut diamond hosts a smaller table and more layered facets. Brilliance is achieved through light reflection among the square facets seen underneath the table. The trimmed corners give it extra style and stability. 

 

Gaining popularity in the 1980s, Radiant cut diamonds have many facets and angles in the pavilion and crown, achieving a high level of brilliance and making them appear almost like cracked ice. Because of this, flaws and inclusions are easily hidden. Radiant cut diamonds are great for someone who loves the outline of the emerald cut but wants the brilliance and sparkle of a round diamond. 

Typically cut rectangular, the length to width ratio can be up to 2.0. Radiant cuts can also be cut into square shape although this is not as readily available in the market. 

Pro Tip: ideal for an active lifestyle, the radiant cut boasts bevelled corners which are more stable in the setting than a fine-pointed corner. 

 

Metal Choice 

Metal choice is very important as it adds to both the design aesthetic and the durability of the ring. At Monty Adams, we provide a range of metal choices to bring together seamlessly the design attributes each client is looking for with the budget they have set for the purchase.  

Gold

A favourite, gold is often the most common choice when it comes to both wedding and engagement rings. 18ct gold is the common metal choice among our clients, and for good reason. It is made from 75% pure gold with the remaining 25% from an alloy of other metals. This provides extra strength and controls the colour of the metal.

When you choose gold as the metal for your engagement ring, you will have three beautiful colours to choose from: Yellow Gold, White Gold, or Rose Gold. These stunning colours are derived from the mix of other metals and alloys with pure gold. We offer 18ct, 14ct and 9ct in all three colour options. The purity of the gold will impact durability and cost which we can discuss in detail during your personalised consultation. Or read about gold purity here.

Mixing gold colours in the design is a beautiful way to enhance individual design features within the ring itself and combinations of gold colours have a particularly luxurious effect when combined with diamonds or other gemstones. 

 

Yellow Gold

Yellow gold is the only one that occurs naturally among all the gold colours. Mined as pure 24ct, gold is naturally yellow and is then mixed with a combination of pink and silver-coloured base metals to form a carat purity suitable for everyday wear.  

 

White Gold

White gold, along with platinum, is one of the most popular choices for engagement rings as the neutral colour allows the stones to be the true hero of the ring and prevents any unwanted colour hues from reflecting off the band and through the diamonds. To achieve its radiant white colour, pure gold is mixed with silver, platinum, or palladium and then rhodium plated. If you are considering white gold for your engagement or wedding rings, speak to your Monty Adams Concierge about the maintenance needs of white gold and how a Monty Adams Service Plan can provide peace of mind. 

Rose Gold

Rose gold is distinguished by its soft pink hue. This colour is caused by the copper in the gold alloy and is a favourite for vintage designs as old gold naturally had a lot of copper in the mix. The beautiful rosy colour is perfect for feminine designs or for clients who love the warmth of yellow gold but prefer the softer look of pink gold. 

Platinum 

Platinum is a highly requested metal choice for engagement rings due to its neutral colour, long-wearing properties and strength. It contains 95% pure platinum and only 5% of other alloys and is naturally white. This means it will retain its beautiful crisp colour, unlike rhodium-plated white gold which requires re-plating on a routine basis.  

Platinum is a dense metal and has unique long-wearing properties, but its inherent malleability does mean the surface can be marked and scratched easily. Platinum is a more difficult metal to work with and can attract higher labour charges and have some design limitations. If you are considering platinum for your engagement or wedding rings, speak to your Monty Adams Concierge about the strengths and weaknesses of this beautiful metal. 

 

 

 

Silver 

Silver is a naturally white metal which is very affordable but is much more susceptible to tarnishing and bending than its more valuable white gold or platinum counterparts. We recommend keeping sterling silver jewellery as a fun fashion option as opposed to a fine jewellery engagement or wedding ring. If you have your heart set on a silver piece, let us help you choose a design option that will provide quality wear over the long term. 

 

Men’s Style Engagement Rings 

In addition to the above-mentioned metals, there are several modern metals available for band-style rings that do not have fine-setting components. These metals are not compatible with the manufacturing techniques used for the common feminine engagement ring designs but do offer a new world of options if the design you are looking for is simpler. Depending on the metal and stone choices, it is possible to add a simple setting to these designs. Discussing these options in more depth with your Monty Adams Jewellery Concierge will allow for a more individual exploration of options. 

Zirconium 

Naturally grey, zirconium is a pliable material that is very resistant to corrosion by acids, alkalis, salt, and heat. It is very light in weight and can be oxidized to a rich black colour that is durable and permanent, but not indestructible. This metal option has become very popular in recent years due to its affordability, lightweight comfortability and modern and masculine black colour. Very versatile in design, there is the ability to stretch the size of a zirconium ring, something not possible with Tungsten or Titanium. 

 

Tungsten 

Tungsten is becoming an increasingly popular choice, particularly among men. Aside from being a more affordable option than gold or platinum, it is also the most scratch-resistant metal available. Because it is virtually scratch proof, you could say this extremely strong metal “lasts a lifetime.” However, the strength of this metal does pose a limitation in resizing or repairing the ring if ever needed. Once you own your Tungsten band, it must be replaced if adjustments are ever needed. When choosing a tungsten band, you can go with its natural steel-grey tone or choose a white, yellow, rose, or even black plated finish.  

 

Cobalt 

Cobalt, like tungsten, is another contemporary choice for men’s engagement rings that is steadily gaining popularity. It has the same lustre, shine, and colour as rhodium-plated white gold, but it is far more durable. In terms of price, it costs more than titanium or tungsten but less than gold or platinum. 

Titanium 

Among the modern metal options for men’s engagement rings, titanium is unquestionably one of the most popular. It has a striking grey tone and is more comfortable to wear than most other metals due to its lightweight nature. But make no mistake about it. Despite its weight, titanium is extremely durable, making it ideal for commemorating your “for always and forever” moment. Like Tungsten, Titanium cannot be resized if adjustments are needed so select the size with care to ensure a good fit. 

 

Matching your wedding band to your custom engagement ring 

Wedding bands can be just as unique as the engagement ring and custom designing your wedding band is a great way to show off your personal style. To ensure your engagement ring design journey is seamless, it is important to cast your mind forward to what you would like the wedding band to look like, if you plan on adding a matching ring on the same finger. Some engagement ring designs will allow for a straight wedding band, and some will require a custom-shaped band to sit alongside. Considering your wedding band preference when designing your engagement ring is crucial if you have an overall look in mind. Wedding bands can be classic plain metal or diamond set, in any of the shapes available. Considering your overall look and budget will help you choose the right matching band for your wedding. 

Straight 

If choosing a straight band for your wedding ring is an important option for you, selecting an engagement ring design that will accommodate a straight band is important. Straight bands are beautiful in their simplicity and will look complete even worn on their own. Whether you opt for stones or not, a straight band is elegant and timeless and can be as individual in its design as your engagement ring is. 

Symmetrical Curve 

Engagement rings with low settings and an unusual shape to the band often require a curved wedding ring to fit neatly against the setting of the engagement ring. This can be done with a gentle curve or something more exact in its fitting for a flush and invisible join. Our CAD designers and handmake jewellers are very experienced in working with the individual shape of the engagement ring to ensure you love the shape of your wedding ring and is something you are proud to wear either on its own or alongside your hero engagement ring. 

 

Asymmetrical curve 

Some engagement rings have an asymmetrical shape and will require a non-traditional shape for the wedding band if you like the designs to sit flush together. We can help you come up with ways to make these two individual rings harmoniously complement each other. 

Tiara 

Trend Alert! The tiara-style wedding and eternity ring style has gained in popularity over the last couple of years as the options are nearly limitless. Incorporating a mixture of differently shaped larger stones allows the designer to play with shape and form and accentuate the shape of the engagement ring. Your Monty Adams Concierge can help you narrow down some of the choices and design a ring that epitomizes the tiara look while sitting perfectly next to your existing ring. 

V-shaped 

A more traditional shape than the tiara design, the V-shaped wedding and eternity rings are generally simpler in their design while still bringing an element of fun and form to your ring set.  

 

Infinity Style Bands 

Using the infinity style in your engagement or wedding ring designs has become a popular choice for the sentiment that it represents. Set with your choice of stone or in a plain design, each option has timeless and romantic appeal. 

 

The Purchasing Process 

Monty Adams does things a little bit differently. We will come to you at a location of your choice and we offer consultations both during and outside traditional trading hours to make the appointment as convenient as possible for you. We also have office space in Sydney CBD, Collins Street in Melbourne and some other shared locations across Sydney and Melbourne. 

If you live interstate or remote meetings are more convenient for you, we also welcome an opportunity to discuss your jewellery designs virtually. 

During your personalised consultation, we will walk you through each step of designing your perfect jewellery piece, offering guidance or education in the areas you would like. Once the design has been decided and stone options selected, we will finalise any quote details you need to make the final decision. This is all offered obligation-free, so you have nothing to lose by working with us on your design ideas. 

Once the design has been approved, it takes anywhere from 2 – 6 weeks to custom-make your ring. Locating a very specific or rare stone or working with intricate designs can sometimes take a little longer. 

 

Quality Assurance 

We work with hundreds of clients every year to create beautiful one-off, personalised jewellery pieces. Having served Sydney and Melbourne for over 10 years, we are well-established and are 100% Australian-owned, operated and made company. This means we adhere to the very strict manufacturing standards regulated in Australia. We work one-on-one with you, to provide guidance and education, so an informed choice can be made.  And we back our products up with a manufacturer’s lifetime warranty. 

We also offer an optional Monty Adams Service Plan with your piece, ensuring we are here for you, long into the future.